yes, the toilets are awful, only a few have seats, and then you wouldn't sit on them. the rest are sqat holes in the ground. The smell defies description.
Hygene isn't the natives strong point! I took plenty of anti-bacterial wipes, and the detol hand wash that you don't need water with. I have since found in the travel shop, disposable anti-bacterial toilet seat covers, and although there are not many you can use these on, the few you can, I would. As for the runs, if you are careful, use the detol hand wash before eating and after, only drink clean water, and take some 'lomotal' (from the chemist) with you, you should be right. A bit of vicks under the nose helps! I am going back in 2010 and this is one aspect of the track I am not looking forward to.