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Day 7 – Efogi to Myola Junction:
Today we went straight up to Efogi No 2 and then straight down again to a creek crossing and up to Naduri where we met up with Ovuru Ndiki, who at 99 probably the oldest living Fuzzy Wuzzy Angel.
We talked in pigdin for ages to both him and his son and looked through the museum. During our stay there we had the most beautiful sugar fruit (passionfruit) – just beautiful.
A highlight of the trek for Bev and myself was having our photograph taken with Ovuru Ndiki who was only too happy to oblige:
Gail___Bev_with_Ovoru.jpgDuring the course of the night at Myola Junction, lots of action was taking place. We had another hot shower compliments of Russell & Chris.
Two porters departed to Kagi to pick up some more food supplies that we had left there during a food drop in October. They came back in the morning with all kinds of goodies to keep us going until we reached Kokoda.
The boys were all getting excited as I think they smelt home and knew Kokoda was just down the road. They went fishing during the night and couldnt stop talking and chatting away.
In the early hours of the morning I awoke to hear Eric sorting through his medical kit to help Russell who had come down with Malaria and was quite sick. After that I couldnt get back to sleep but must have done so as I woke up to see Bev walking around in the dark trying to get organised for an early morning start. I couldnt help but think, is it really time to get up as its still dark, at that point all I wanted to do was sleep, but up I got and in the dark started packing.
Day 8 – Myola Junction to Iroa Creek:
At daylight Bev & Chris disappeared off across the creek for a climb up to Mt Bellamy the highest point on the trail. When we arrived at the top, Chris and Bev were no where to be seen whereas the rest of us stopped for at least half an hour at this point.
Syprian came over and shook my hand and said congratulations Gail you have made it. I questioned his remark and he point towards Kokoda and said now you are heading for home. I said home, and he replied, yes you are helping us, the boys of Kokoda and it is now your home too, look over there and you will see Kokoda. All the boys were just so excited and I could tell they were on a home run and couldnt wait to see their families and friends againl.
At this point of time, both Eric and Russell each planted a tanget and made a promise to give up smoking. So far so good, to the best of my knowledge both men have stuck to their culture and stopped.
From Mt Bellamy we headed down to Templeton's Crossing where Russell was doing it really tough and was just managing to put one foot after another. On reaching the campsite he lied down near a fire Paulo had started, covered himself from head to toe and went off to sleep.
Bev, Chris, Eric, Kingsley, Ian & Aiwa took off while the rest of us waited around until Russell woke up to see if he could continue to walk. Sometime later he woke and assured the remainder of us, Syprian, Paulo, and two other food porters that he was ok and would try and keep walking.
At this point he got his second wind and we started making good time to Ioro Creek where it started pouring with rain. The guys made a decision not to push onto Alola as we would be walking in the rain and it could be quite slippery especially with the steep river bank directly out of the campsite area and the climb into Alola. I think this was a good choice as the next day when I saw the walk ahead of us, I was just so glad we did not continue the night before in the wet.
Eric Uwea, myself & Russell Eroro seen here at Mt Bellamy:
Eric_Gail___russ.jpgDay 9 – Iora Creek to Kokoda:
We woke up at dawn and packed up quickly as the had to make up time and a long walk ahead of us. The boys went straight down the short cut to the creek whereas Russell took me another slightly easier route. When we finally made it to the creek, the guys were already there despite looking like they hadnt even started packing their area when we departed the camp.
It was at this point of time I looked down and noticed I had lost my watch. Russell took off back up the track to see if he could see it, but unfortunately not, he returned without it. I tried to tell him he need not worry as I could easily buy another watch but the day had not started out so well. I guess thats a tip for anyone reading this, dont wear your watch or any other jewellery in case it gets knocked and/or falls off like in my case, due to the bush you loose it forever.
We continued walking until we came to a hill heading towards Alola. We seemed to be walking and walking when I asked, where is the village. Russell replied that we were still walking around the mountain and had not yet come to the climb up. When we did, I sure knew it….I looked up and said, better not go to far ahead Russ as I think I am going to need help with this steep climb. Fortunatley I coped ok but the climb took it out of me and when I arrived in the village, I was absolutely stuffed.
It was at this point that I noticed some fresh fruit and couldnt help but eat a few bananas to try and get some energy back. All our guides looked pretty relaxed and a porter we had hired to carry my pack due to Russell being sick, spotted his mother and wailing began. Seems the porter had stayed in another village for a few months and she had not seen him for some time. As we packed up and walked out of the village we could still hear both the mother and son crying their eyes out.
A short time later we ran into the first of four army groups from Townsville and a couple of nationals accompanying them. All these guys were taking a break and sitting on a bank on the trail and shook hands and asked questions etc. These were the first trekkers we had come across since commencing our journey. At that point of time they all looked pretty tired and were asking how much further to Alola. They also told us we should run into another 3 groups which we surely did as we moved closer to Kokoda.
Shortly after meeting up with the Army guys we ran into a member of our special 'task force' who had walked up from Kokoda to bring some film to me. I can remember sending a message by two way radio to John Derrick Eroro the day before asking for him to purchase film for me in Popondetta and to have it walked up to Isurava Battlesight area but I did not expect them the film to meet up with me at Alola. At this point of time he took my main pack from Russell and Russell took my day pack from me and we headed off to Isurava. When Russell was sick I insisted I carry my day pack so he could recover, but today he seemed to be on a run for home and I was feeling exhausted already and yet still so far to go.
On arriving at Isurava, it was the most beautiful sight you could ever imagine. However, my legs by this stage were like not attached to my body and I can still hear Russell saying, get your camera and go down and take some photographs and enjoy the view. I started off down the hill and wondered if I would make it before collapsing. My legs truly felt like jelly and it was a real effort to keep them on level ground as for once we were walking on flatter ground not mountains so it felt funny to be walking like this in the first instance.
However, the views and the beautiful monument of this area just blew me away and I somehow found my second wind and started walking down the hill with the guys to check out the views and to read items of interest at the monument etc.
Isurava Battlesight Monument Area:
Gail___Russell_Isurava.jpg
IMG_0921__Small_.JPGA short time later we walked back up the hill and regrouped with our backpacks etc to head down to the village of Isurava where one of our guides Kinglsey Boropi lives with his wife and four children.
We woke up Bev and our journey soon began. During the walk Russell was saying how many trekkers complain about the walk up from Hoi Village to Isurava but in our case we were heading down, down, down with lots of tree roots for company.
Photographa: Isurava Village where we stopped and had a cuppa:
IMG_1420__Small_.jpg
IMG_1417__Small_.jpgAfter leaving Isurava Village, we headed down toward Hoi when we ran into more soldiers and way further down the track, two PNG soldiers way behind the others who were really surprised to run into a woman walking the trail.
They begged me to sit with them and have my photograph taken as a keepsake for them.
I was then handed their rifle and we sat and posed for a photograph. I could only hope no-one was sick as one guy was carrying their first aid kit and he looked like he would be lucky at that stage to make Isurava.
Two army soldiers accompanying the Australian army guys from Townsville. When asked why they were there when they clearly did not look like they were enjoying it….remarked, when in the army you do not have much choice so here we are….haha
Gail_Army.jpgWe continued to press on and we came across the choko fields which I immediately could relate to due to the fact that lots of trekkers take photographs on the way up to Hoi and it looked very familiar to me. Not just a few vines here and there but we seemed to be walking for ages before we got out of this area as they were growing wild.
We sat for a few minutes to drink water and catch our breath. When we got up to move off again, Russell pulled out the camera and took a photograph:
Gail_at_Deniki___choko_field.jpgThe final hours as we head down to Russell Eroro's Family Block:
When walking down to Hoi Village we come across yet another group of Army personnel from Townsville who were camping for the night at this location.
Several of them mentioned they knew about my kokoda website and they told us that they were the elite squad and were supposed to be fitter than the other three previous groups.
By this point of time I was both elated to be finished and totally exhausted as I had been walking since 6am and it was now 6pm and the last time I had sat down was at Alola Village around about 10am that morning. The fact is, for me personally, when I switch off and sit for any length of time, its really hard to get up and get moving again. Its kinda like my body switches off and thinks its finished for the day hence I wasnt game to sit down at the Isurava Battlesight area and I was afraid I would never get up again and I knew I still had a few hours left to trek.
In fact to be honest, I would have loved to have said, lets stay here the night when we got to Isurava but the disappointment on the boys faces not to make it home would have been to much to bear since seeing the excitement on their faces from Mt Bellamy onwards, that I decided to push on, and on I did!
We passed over the creek at Hoi and headed for Kokoda. We started walking single file along the flat ground and come across a couple of really nice thatched houses but our thoughts were clearly that it was getting dark and we all just wanted to arrive at the block to sit, relax and get showered and cleaned up and eat, yes we were all hungry again!
Russell and Eric stopped sometime later and started talking to the people of Kovello but for the rest of us, we kept walking towards our final destination.
Paulo sent a radio message saying it was getting dark and we would be out as soon as we could but that we had no head torches as they were back in our packs with Russell & Eric. The reply came back….WE ARE COMING TO GET YOU!!! the voice on the line was John Derrick Eroro so we just kept walking in the dark wondering when the others behind us would catch up or KLT1 our PMV truck based in Kokoda would arrive to greet us. About this time it started to rain so combined with the fatigue I was feeling it was all I needed.
So we kept walking until we ran into KTL1 our PMV and John Derrick Eroro (himself a veteran of over 300 treks). All of us piled into the PMV and we were soon on the way to their block. I cant remember much of this journey as I just sat in the corner in the back of the truck and switched off with my feet on top of the many backpacks so pleased with myself that I had made it to Kokoda.
Taken at Russell Eroro's family block:
Gail_Kokoda.jpgOn the Monday the 22nd November, my feet were swollen and my body was aching so the last thing I wanted to do was walk again so I decided on doing nothing all day except resting to get my strength back.
As for Bev, she was up and ready to go walking around the station with Chris and some other guys to check out the hospital and meet up with his family and to check out his vanilla farm. They returned mid afternoon and after something to eat we went for a walk down to the creek a short distance away which the family uses for bathing. The creek was like many others on the trail and we decided that a nice hot shower was the way to go for us back at the block.
So back to the block we went to clean up and pack once again for an early departure the following morning at 3am for the drive down to Popondetta in our PMV KTL1.
The following morning, Bev jumped in the back whereas I thought she would sit in the front with me. It was to be our first ride to Popondetta in a PMV so both of us did not know at this stage what we were in for.
The road although mostly flat is very rocky and during the 3 hour journey we ended up with three flat tyres. Bev on reaching Popondetta said the only thing she could relate it to was India when she had travelled around many years ago.
Bev was by then worried about getting back to Australia and we headed straight to the Air Niugini Office to check for the flight to Port Moresby only to be told that the telephone lines where down and that both flights the day before had been cancelled and that there was a backlog of passengers to move.
We then decided to drive out for ourselves and on arrival saw the Airlines of PNG flight take off for Port Moresby and were told there was little or no chance of catching the Air Niugini flight later that day.
At this point in time we decided to stick to the original plan and drive out to Gona to see if this would be good to include in our treks.
From an historial point of view I guess one could say been there done that but the three hour return drive from Popondetta to Gona to us seemed hardly worthwhile when on arrival all there is to see is a black sandy beach.
Gona Beach:
pic32.jpgOn Wednesday 24th November we returned to Port Moresby happy that we had completed what we set out to do, and that was to walk the Kokoda Trail.
Much appreciation has to go to the guys from Kokoda and Eric from Sogeri who accompanied Bev and I. Without their help I am sure we would still be waundering around somewhere out there int he jungle, so sincere thanks guys for taking care of us and spoiling us rotten.
As Bev remarked on several occasions, she has had many great holidays, but this one will go down in history as the best ever!
A group picture which tells a thousand words at how happy they all were that they got us injury free across the trail and that we thoroughly enjoyed our trek.
scanpo__Medium_.jpgSpecial thanks must go to my JV Partner Russell Eroro who acted as my personal porter on this trek. On day 9 I slipped and fell going down to Hoi Village and he reprimanded me…..have you not learnt anything in 9 days, come I will help you up….haha
He then smiled and with an extended hand pulled me up for the 13th time. Actually the truth of the matter was that he was just so worried that so close to home I would hurt myself and he wanted so desperately to prove to everyone that if I could do it so could anyone.
So here I am to say he is so right. With sheer determination, two months of training on the stairwell at Deloitte's I managed to walk the Kokoda Trail.
Besides giving birth to four healthy children, it is without doubt the hardest but best thing I have ever achieved in my lifetime.
Myself & Russell seen here before we headed off from Nauro Village Guesthouse:
Gail___Russell_Nauro_Villag.jpgThanks also must go to our ever smiling guide Kingsley who was an inspiration to trek with as he makes it look so easy and has this permanent grin on his face. Often Kingsley would share a joke with us; he would take his turn playing the uke'ule; he did his share of cooking/cleaning and was always the laugh of the party.
On one night Chris & Paulo were playing their uke'ule's when Kingsley put on a floor show for us.
Myself and Kingsley seen here on the Kokoda Trail. Thanks Kingsley.
Gail___Kingsley_pic60.jpgTo Chris thanks for looking after Bev on the Kokoda Trail. To Syprian, for helping me across many a river crossing, much appreciated. For the many meals you cooked and for both your company on our trek which has helped to make it very memorable for both Bev and myself.
Chris & Syprian out on the Kokoda Trail:
Chris___Syprian_pic46.jpgLast but not least, a special thank you to Eric Uwea who took the time leading up to our trek to come and walk with me around Port Moresby most afternoons and also one day out at Sogeri.
Eric also gave me so much encouragement from day 1 when I first said I would walk the trail. I think in the beginning he like others, may have thought I would not stick to my plan, but when I put my mind to something, I generally end up doing it.
tks Eric
Eric Uwea our guide from Sogeri, seen here on the Kokoda Trail during our November trek:
Eric_pic47.jpgA final note of thanks must go to Beverley Howell for joining me on this trek. We caught up on a lot of things as we had not seen each other for many many years.
It was just so great to trek with someone I knew and to relate each day the way we were feeling and to have someone to share the experience with.
I hope Bev you got as much out of your trek as I did and that your husband was glad to have you back home safe and sound following your successful trek.
Bev & myself seen here at Ofi Creek putting on our shoes and gaitors for another early morning start:
Bev___Gail_Ofi_Creek.jpgA final thank you must go to the 3770 + diggers buried at the Bomana War Cemetery on the outskirts of Port Moresby. As one person who emails uses as his pen signature,
If you can read this at all, thank a teacher
If you can read it in English, thank a diggerWhich pretty much sums it up. After walking the Kokoda Trail, a visit to Bomana puts everything into perspective and you can only walk around Bomana and reflect and thank the diggers for their ultimate sacrifice.
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