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Hello to all…
This is a note for the independent travellers out there, people who look to forums like this one to plan their adventures.
I have recently returned from my own personal Kokoda adventure. Myself and a work collegue scoured this and other forum sites looking for advice on how to do this trek independently. We found again and again comments like the thread regarding "Gas Containers in Pt Moresby" describing anyone who would take on the trek without a group as "stupid" "idiots". Seemingly forums push for organised group travel and fear-monger regarding any and every aspect you might encounter if you dared to try and live this adventure yourself.
Why did we choose to do this independently? Partly for the adventure of it. Partly to ensure we didnt get the over-commericalized feel we both felt on the Inca Trail. Partly as organized groups seemed expensive and lastly partly to prove it could be done.
Heading to PNG is not something to take lightly. Moresby is a dangerous place. Accomodation is in the form of secure compounds. I have absolutely no doubt if you walked around areas of town you are advised not to you would get robbed in a matter of minutes. Saying that, people who have travelled to Sth America (especially Venezuala, Columbia or Brazil) or Africa would know Pt Moresby is not the only city in the World with these kind of warnings. Indeed the prospect of organized crime in cities such as Rio De Janerio, Caracas or Jo'Berg is much higher than Pt Moresby. Book your accomodation ahead, and expect to pay upwards of $40 ASD a night for anything reasonable. Six-mile is not an area you can walk out of the compound in (even in the day time). Boroko on the otherhand is reasonably safe to walk around in the day, including around the KTA office. Mapang Missionary Home was a good, clean, safe place to stay – not a 4 star hotel but then I didnt come to PNG for 4 star hotels.
To the trek itself… The Kokoda Track Association (KTA) are extremely helpful. They can help with arranging guides and porters, transfers to / from Owers Corner and chartered flights (at a fraction of the cost of Air Nuguini's internet fare). All this can be arranged via email and finalized in Pt Moresby at their Boroko office.
We did Kokoda to Owers in 6 days. We had a guide and a porter although both of us carried all but 2kg of our food, clothing and camping gear. We are both physically fit but didnt specifically train for the trek. It was hard but achievable. I didnt want it to be easy, to simply stroll along the Kokoda Track and not hurt just doesnt seem right to me. We took a tent each when in reality (as out of season) we could have easily got by with a mosquito net only. I packed a Trangia methylated spirits stove (you can get methylated spirits in chemists in Pt Moresby) which in retrospect I could have easily done without as there was boiling water at each village each night. Our guide and porter were friendly enough although they did not offer much by the way of historical information on each of the sites / villages. Saying this we had both read the history extensively and had a copy of Bill James' "Field Guide to the Kokoda Track" on track which was extremely helpful. We stayed at each of our guides home villages which gave more of a cultural feel. On village fees, we simply paid the following morning as negotiated by the guide (limited by the KTA to a maximum of $10ASD a night)
A note on safety on the track. We are both medical trained and had top level travel insurance. The track is very remote and isolated, to get an injured trekker out would be difficult – tour group or not – the trekker would need to be carried to the nearest village to be evacuated. Travelling independently without a satelite phone would require a native runner to dash to the closest village and return with help – its never going to be the difference between life and death. So all the arguements saying "I know its a lot of money but think of your health" just dont hold it for me.
I found Kokoda an amazing experience. I found researching the trip, researching and buying my equipment and studying the history of the campaign all rewarding. The trek itself was breathtaking, adventurous and thought provoking.
As a descendent of 2/27th I would like to think that hiking Kokoda was something all Australians should have the opportunity to undertake… and maybe this contribution might make it more in the reach of the average Australian…
A group of 4 (3 males, 1 female), are planning to do the kokoda track independently, starting early January [We too are trying to escape the commericalization of all adventures]. My few worries have been greatly eased by your posting and KTA sound amazingly helpful.
We are planning to do the trek with hammocks, we've constructed metho burners(we felt our trangia is way too heavy) and hope to do the hike in 6 days(we are all fit) carrying our own packs.
Anyone that has done the trek in January or in the wet season (my biggest worry is not being able to cross the creeks/rivers), suggest any tips/ideas.Quote
"I have recently returned from my own personal Kokoda adventure. Myself and a work collegue scoured this and other forum sites looking for advice on how to do this trek independently. We found again and again comments like the thread regarding "Gas Containers in Pt Moresby" describing anyone who would take on the trek without a group as "stupid" "idiots". Seemingly forums push for organised group travel and fear-monger regarding any and every aspect you might encounter if you dared to try and live this adventure yourself."
Good on you for doing it yourself,Im glad to see the spirit of adventure is not dead.
Ive know a few people who have done solo treks of the track and enjoyed the experience.
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