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Some of you may already visited PNG by taking up the challenge to walk one of the world?s renowned WWII tracks ? the Kokoda Trail.
How about, we tell you about two guys from along the Kokoda trail who had an awesome time and some memorable moments in Australia during their Christmas break as guests of Gail & John Thomas and their family. Gail & John's four children all spent many years in PNG and still feel it is home. They got to practice some pidgin and motu and caught up on some of their own memories of PNG as they welcomed Russell & Eric to Australia and their individual homes.
Russell Eroro, father of one of most popular and 100 per cent nationally owned trekking companies in PNG, namely Kokoda Trekking Limited (KTL – Gail's JV partner), along with Eric Uwea, a senior guide with KTL, were thrilled from the day they arrived on the Gold Coast, QLD until the time they left.
Shortly after they arrived in Australia they celebrated Christmas Day with Cheree & Tony Kearney (nee Thomas) at their home in Oxenford along with all the 'Thomas' clan. They received Christmas presents for the first time ever and learnt how some aussies at least celebrate Christmas Day. Russell mentioned some time later that he wished he had known so he could have taken down some bilums to pass around as he had no idea of our custom and was surprised to receive some presents from family members.
Sometime later during his stay he realised what it was he could contribute as both daughters Cheree & Mikayla fell in love with a tapa cloth that was given to Gail by his mother. He promised them on his return that his family would prepare and send one each for them as a belated present to thank them for their hospitality.
Christmas in Australia was a whole new experience for Russell and Eric. On Christmas Eve they were driven up to Highland Park Nerang where everywhere they looked houses were lit up with Christmas lights. They were driven around for quite awhile then went to a lookout where they could see the whole of the Gold Coast which was just awesome. From where they stood it seemed the whole area below them was lit up with Christmas lights, including different colours for reindeers, Christmas trees and stars. It was just so amazing," Russell recalled.
On the Gold Coast they have a prize for the best decorated home and it was real pretty to drive past at night and see the trouble the occupants had gone to with their Christmas lights just to look nice and I guess out-do their neighbours.
Eric Uwea and Russell Eroro sitting in the loungeroom of Gail & John's home with the framed tapa cloth on the wall in the background. As you can see Eric sampled VB and thought it was pretty good:
100_2717.jpgSince it was their first trip to Australia, the guys visited just about every corner of Surfers Paradise, Northern NSW and a trip up to the Sunshine Coast during their four-week stay. Although they had much to tell, they chose only to disclose their most memorable moments.
One experience, they will treasure for as long as they live, was the privilege of meeting Stan Bisset ? a 92 year old surviving WWII Veteran of 2/14th Battalion who fought against the Japanese during the Kokoda campaign. Mr. Bisset is a living legend in Australia and both men were honored to meet him and his wife Gloria when they were invited to visit their home on the Sunshine Coast along with Gail & John Thomas.
This story does ring a similar tone. On the Kokoda Trail is also a living legend – 98 year old Ovoru Indiki – one of the longest surviving 'Fuzzy Wuzzy Angel's' – many trekkers may have had the honor of meeting him in person.
Their story is similar but the only difference is that – Stan fought during the war while Ovoru was a carrier helping the Australian soldiers.
"It was real honor for me to meet someone who has actually fought on our land during WWII and who is still alive said Russell Eroro. Many may have heard of him but to actually meet him and to listen to his conversation was just amazing.
"I was thinking this truly is an honorable man. A war veteran, 63 years after the war and still alive at the age of 92. This was the highlight of my trip and I will never forget this," Russell said after meeting with Stan Bisset.
He said he was really humbled by this experience and although he wanted to ask him lots of questions he couldn't bring himself too due to the training he received during his 12 years as a Kokoda Trail porter & guide. He was told, never to ask veterans any questions in case they did not want to talk about what happened during the war so he held back and did not ask the questions he so wanted to know about.
Stan also seemed impressed that he was talking to two Papua New Guinean's who took time out in Australia to visit him and whom both have a relationship with the Kokoda Trail. He said he has met many people from PNG over the years but they were the first ever to visit his home in Australia. Stan also remarked that Russell's 287 treks spanning 12 years was quite an achievement in itself. He told the guys that he was also the oldest living Wallaby representive. Later they were shown into a room full of Stan's memorable moments and was surprised to find some of our trekkers names on plaques given to Stan relating to their own treks.
Even Eric shared the same sentiments as Russell's. "It was both a privilege and honor to meet Mr Bisset," he said. Eric was also surprised when Stan's wife Gloria brought out a photograph album and when opened he immediately saw a photograph of his father which was taken at Ower's Corner during a visit Stan had done some years earlier.
Stan Bisset (middle) with Eric Uwea and Russell (Rusty) Eroro
100_2697___Stan_Bisset.jpgLike you may have found discovered that it was a totally new experience for you during your visit to PNG and out on the Kokoda Trail ? so it was the same with Russell and Eric who returned from their trip last Sunday.
Both men said they had a tremendous time and relayed some great experiences while touring around Northern NSW, the Gold Coast & Sunshine Coast.
They visited Dreamworld with all its fun and magical moments, and with their base at Surfer's Paradise they got into a game of ten pin bowling; table tennis; shopping centres such as Pacific Fair & Australian Fair; walking at Binna Burra; going to a movie theatre; watching lots of DVD movies; going for lots of 10k walks along sandy beaches and suburbs and even tried a bit of surfing.
This however took a bit of coaxing as they felt different from all the white aussie's at the beach and felt shy with their skin colour to take off their shirts and go for a dip. Finally when their days were numbered before returning to PNG and when threatened by Murray Jones (Team Kokoda) that he would never stop teasing them if they returned to PNG without having a swim in the surf, they found a place between the flags where there were not too many people and decided to go for a swim.
Unfortunately Russell could not get the water out of one ear and suffered with ear ache for the next day or so. A trip to the chemist showed some relief but it still took a day or so for the problem to go away. They both loved the beautiful white sandy beaches and could not believe how far they went for, as far as the eye could see.
Russell Eroro and Eric Uwea at Dreamworld….
See the pictures of the trip to Australia by clicking here
000_0064.jpgWhile in Australia the guys also had the chance to meet some of our ex-trekkers who had the privilege to trek with the boys through Kokoda Trekking Limited.
They managed to catch up with Mark Priest (Anzac Day Trek 2004) when along with Gail they were invited to lunch at a hotel and later in the afternoon a visit to his home. This was a real thrill as they got to see Mark at his property near Canungra along with his extended family.
Their eyes nearly popped out of their head when they saw his five dogs; two snakes; three parrots, one of which said 'hello' to them; five motor bikes; two four wheel drive vehicles; tennis court; swimming pool; horse stables; over 50 head of cattle; mansion for a home which included a large billiard & entertainment room; DVD's of his shark diving expeditions; followed by a drive around his large property which also joins a popular winery etc etc.
The guys were just so impressed and also happy that Mark is coming up again this year during April with his partner and other friends to walk the trail once again. He also mentioned he wants to come back later in the year to walk again with some other friends…wow…has he really fallen in love with Kokoda?
Mark Priest pictured here following his successful kokoda trek during April, 2004. Mark commented to us during our visit that on returning to Australia he along with others where he worked, had a medical checkup. Turned out he was as fit as he could possibly be and he attributed that to his training leading up to his kokoda trek and also the fact that he was enough to complete the walk. He said for fitness alone he would consider walking every year as it forced him to get off his butt and train ie an inspiration to keep fit with a goal he was working towards. He also remarked he cant wait to get back up here and has requested the same guide as last year Syprian (on the right in this photograph) to lead his trek.
P1000672_mark___siprian.jpgEarly 2005 Russell & Eric accompanied John & Gail Thomas to a barbeque put on by Peter Holles and his family who trekked from the 5-10th September, 2004. In attendance were all members of the ON ON hash group including Michael Holles who flew up from Sydney for the occasion.
Peter Holles was so impressed with our guides and porters that he has been working on a small booklet for them to carry with them to help train our staff re the historical aspect of the trail.
Peter has already booked another April trek in 2006 and is hoping to get other hash members to join him once again on the Kokoda trail. Forget the 9 day trek, these guys say its 6 days or nothing! on on on
The group during the Barbarcue which included Russell Eroro, Eric Uwea, Gail & John Thomas, Peter, Andrew, Richard & Michael Holles, Donald & Patricial Griffin, Evan Wham & Ken Bunny along with other family members…
Also at the barbeque were two other trekkers from a previous trek namely Russell Fry & Dot O'Flynn from 18th – 26th August
100_2659.JPGThe same day they drove up to see Stan Bisset, along with Gail & John Thomas, they were invited to lunch by Bob McDonald's (McDonald's Corner fame) who also resides on the Sunshine Coast.
Bob cooked up a loaf of bread in his breadcooker (can't get any fresher than that) which inspired us to purchase our own, one for here in Port Moresby and the other which is now at Russell's block in Kokoda. A beautiful avocado spread with some cold meat and a crunchy noodle salad. Both guys ate up heaps and were surprised to see so many memorable items on display from PNG such as a Japanese war gun; empty bullet cases; spears on the walls; carved piglets and much much more all reminding them of home.
Eric who hails from Sogeri listened as Bob recalled how he used to travel back and forth by horse to school each day and other tales he shared with them.
Bob walked the trail a few years back with his son and grandson. During the trek he was asked many questions he could not answer so on his return was pursuaded to do some more research and dig up the answers. It has so inspired Bob that he now produces small lightweight diaries you can purchase off our website to carry along in your backpacks. It also has 9 blank pages at the back for you to write your own details of your trek. Cost is quite reasonable at $26.00 which include handling and postage.
He has also produced a Photo Album which is a must buy for anyone who can afford it – definitely a collector's item. The album has a place for your own photographs at the back and in the front is the history of the trail which is very detailed and which the RSL Club including Stan Bisset has endorsed. This too can be purchased off our website.
Eric Uwea, Russell Eroro, Gail Thomas & Bob McDonald taken at his beachside residence on the Sunshine Coast in January, 2005:
100_2696.jpgAnother trip for them to recall to their friends and relatives on their return to PNG was a visit to Beverley & Ted Howell's residence in Brisbane. Bev who walked with Gail and the guys in November had such a great time that she has given out all cards she took back home with her following her trip and asked for more.
Bev works as a nursing sister mainly at Greenslopes Hospital in Brisbane and said she has been telling nurses/doctors/patients and anyone else who will listen to her, about her Kokoda experience which she still maintains ranks as the best holiday she has ever had!
Bev prepared another beautiful lunch and then drove us around the city of Brisbane and showed Eric & Russell what she calls home. The drive included in and around the city of Brisbane including the beautiful parks. We then ended up at Mt Cootha and the look out at the top where the guys could see a complete view of the city of Brisbane. They were also informed that it is the training grounds for most of the trekkers from the Brisbane area who take on the Kokoda Trail and they could clearly see why.
Later in the day Bev took Eric, Russell & Gail to Southbank where they parked and walked around what was on offer. Both the guys were once again blown away by the various museums, parks, swimming areas, restaurants and so forth….more stories for them to tell their friends and families back home.
Russell Eroro, Bev Howell & Eric Uwea seen here at the Mt Cootha lookout:
100_2663___Russell_Bev___Er.jpgOn the same day as meeting up with Stan Bisset & Bob McDonald, on the way home from the Sunshine Coast they popped in on Murray Jones (Team Kokoda) in Redcliffe who was expecting them around 7pm. (Murray runs Team Kokoda but sub-contracts the land content of his treks to us here in PNG).
Murray Jones on the Kokoda Trail during his Anzac Day Trek in 2004:
100_0105___murray_jones.jpgNo trip to Australia for two png lads would not be complete without a train ride as there is no such thing here in PNG.
In this photograph you will see Russell & Eric catching the train from Robina to Helensvale.
They commented they thought it was a great way to travel but wondered why it was not full and so many seats were empty.
Here in PNG all PMV's (public motor transport) are always full.
Russell & Eric enjoying their short ride in a train:
100_2705.jpgGail saved the most exciting thing for them till the very last day….now what could that be you might well be asking yourselves.
Would you believe it is to own a pair of army trousers! Yes, this is the prize gift of all for a kokoda guide or porter.
In December when they arrived Gail took them to Nerang Disposal Camping Store to show them all the items that were available. When they walked into the store their eyes immediately located the trousers and the two guys did not move.
Gail suggested they move around the store and look at something besides the trousers and quickly told the guy behind the counter that is used to serving her to put away two pairs of trousers that would fit them and that she would come back later to purchase them.
Russell's trousers are a little long and need to be taken up. On arrival back here in PNG do you think he left them behind to have them taken up….no, they caught the flight to Popondetta as his pride and joy. For years he has begged and borrowed off friends and they have always given him a hard time and told him to purchase his own.
Well now both him and Eric will never have to borrow again!
Two smiling PNGEAN's in front of the love of their life – army trousers:
100_2723.jpgOn the way back to the Gold Coast from the Sunshine Coast, the guys were hungry so it was decided to pull in somewhere to get something to eat. Everyone ended up at the Lone Star Saloon, a steakhouse on the outskirts of Brisbane near Logan Road.
This turned out to be a real hit as the meal was the best you could possibly imagine. Everyone has the most tender steaks ever. The service was also excellent and the atmosphere very much texan/American. The guys couldnt understand the waitress who spoke with a texan accent.
Seen here posing for a pic inside the restaurant:
ACD42B.tmpJupitors Casino was also an eye opener for these guys who at 1am in the morning were going for a joy ride from Jupitors to Broadbeach. Both places were full of people enjoying an outing.
Here in PNG you would not be sitting on the sidewalk at a restaurant at that hour in the morning. This sort of thing was quite a shock to these guys that as Australians we move around at whim and take for granted the fact that we are safe at all times.
Back at Jupitors, they enjoyed a meal in their restaurant before heading home at 3am.
Jimmy (our website guru & programmer), Eric Uwea & Russell Eroro inside the train:
DSC01282.JPGWhen it came to ten pin bowling, Russell was a natural but Eric found it hard to hit any balls at first but was determined to practice more until he got the hang of it.
The night before they returned to PNG he once again wanted to have a go at ten pin bowling.
Russell Eroro & Eric Uwea seen here in the Paradise Centre:
DSC01279.jpgTo celebrate the New Year, everyone headed off to Byron Bay. Would you believe at Byron Bay it costs $60 per vehicle just to park your car. The alternative is to park on the outskirts of the town and be ferried in by bus and or walk.
The guys could not get over how organised it all was. Car after car was stopped and told where to go and what to do and where to park. Finally we got to the main streets where there was around 50,000 + people circulating around live bands; street entertainment; joy rides; live shows and so on. At 10pm it was decided to head back to Surfers Paradise and celebrate the New Year on the beach.
On arrival in Surfers, there was even more people celebrating the New Year and the car had to be parked and a walk of at least an hour to the action had to take place. On arrival at central Surfers Paradise beach it was already 11:45 so a position was found on the beach sitting on the sand.
At midnight, fire crackers went off to the tune of loud music and thousands of people yelling and chanting. Amazing and the guys were just shell shocked. Leaving this area once again found them not knowing what to say except to hold their hands in case they got lost as they reckon they would not be able to find their way home.
So there they were, not game to loose sight of anyone just wondering if they would ever experience something like that ever again in their life.
Fireworks on Surfers Paradise Beach, New Year, 2005:
DSC01321.JPGA trip to Dreamworld would not have been complete without holding a Koala and having your photograph taken.
Both Eric & Russell lined up to do just that and now with their photographs to show their families, they have memories forever of their trip downunder.
Click on page 2 below to continue reading this article:
Russell Eroro smiles at the camera with the Koala he was handed minutes earlier:
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