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11.30 – When we have walked for almost another hour, we reached a clearing, rest for a while and climb up for about 1400m as Alola came into view ? a nice small village located on the top of the mountain and with clean surroundings. Here mango trees, passion fruits, mandarins, bananas grow in abundance. By then everyone is hungry after a long walk from Isurava. We had ripe bananas, passion fruits, tree tomatoes, pineapples and watermelons very fresh from the villager?s garden and delicious.
At lunch time we help ourselves to hot potatoes, corns, again rice with tinned meat and tuna ? our main course for dinner. The meal help as it?s cold up here.
Creek at Alola:
Creek_at_Alola.jpg12: 15 ? We leave Alola : After a steep short hill we come across a clearing knoll ? this is the original Isurava village of 1942. We took some time to enjoy the breathtaking view down to Kokoda and the Yodda valley.
Photograph – View back to Alola:
View_back_to_Alolo.jpg1.30 ? We come upon a creek, after crossing, the track starts to climb again and it is lengthy but steady towards Eora. It is now 2.00 pm and at this stage we hear the might roar of the Eora Creek ? directly below us. A steep descend on a track which is dangerously cut-off on one side. The edge falls sharply below (last thing you want fall off the edges). At one stage we come across marks that showed someone slipped off the side ? of course no one was down there but just imagine what went through that fellow?s head.
View from somewhere near Eora Creek:
Erora_Creek.jpgWe reach Eora Creek at 2.00 ? of course couldn?t wait to jump into the water after all the struggling. We went carefully over the bridge of logs tied together with canes on the side as a support. Here big smooth rocks which lay on the sides on the creek ? offered a good opportunity to dry off after a cool bath. Of course we found out that it shined only for half of the day. The water proved too cold for me, found out that I could not stand for a minute without my feet getting numb with cold.
We head straight for the camping area ? which was a short stiff climb up and clearing ahead, in the middle and visible is a steel shelter. Here a home to thousands of fireflies, luminous fungi and moss. Fireflies area common and can be seen during dark as they fit around the camp site.
Eora Creek Crossing:
EoraCreekcrossing0001.jpg3.00 – The guys are studying the writing on the monument ? each site significant during the war had a monument retelling events happened along the area during the war. Live shells, both Australian and Japanese, pieces of bayonets and boot belonging probably to an Australian soldier are kept at the monument site.
Eora Creek Crossing:
EoraCreekcrossing2.jpg5.00 ? Geoff went dug some more live shells came and left them on the monument. Ross identified them as the ones used by Japanese. After this the guys head down for the creek to have their wash and head up back to camp.
Eora_Creek_Crossing_No.2.jpg6.00 ? After a hot meal and nice hot cup of tea ?.we went and had an early rest ? today, to me was like the longest walk!
During the war this was the site of Eora village, but today it is not inhabited and overgrown. They say, the deep valley sets dark and here you will find another place where we can feel soldiers? ghosts of 1942.
ANZAC Day – Lest we Forget:
I saw a kid marchin? with medals on his chest.
He marched alongside Diggers marching six abreast.
He knew that it was ANZAC Day – he walked along with pride.
He did his best to keep in step with the Diggers by his side.
And when the march was over the kid was rather tired.A Digger said ?Whose medals, son?? to which the kid replied:
?They belong to daddy, but he did not come back.
He died up in New Guinea on a lonely jungle track?.The kid looked rather sad then and a tear came to his eye.
The Digger said ?Don?t cry my son and I will tell you why.Your daddy marched with us today – all the blooming way.
We Diggers know that he was there – it?s like that on ANZAC Day?.The kid looked rather puzzled and didn?t understand,
But the Digger went on talking and started to wave his hand.?For this great land we live in, there?s a price we have to pay
For we all love fun and merriment in this country where we live.The price was that some soldier his precious life must give.
For you to go to school my lad and worship God at will,
Someone had to pay the price so the Diggers paid the bill.Your daddy died for us my son – for all things good and true.
I wonder if you understand the things I?ve said to you?.The kid looked up at the Digger – just for a little while
And with a changed expression, said, with a lovely smile:
?I know my dad marched here today – this is ANZAC Day.I know he did. I know he did, all the bloomin? way?.
D. Hunter(A veteran of Shaggy Ridge with the 2/12 Battalion in WW2
DAY FOUR ? EORA CREEK TO NADURI
Wednesday 1st October 2003 ? THE CLIMB BEGINS?Today is an uphill battle ? the real climb begins!?
As usual we leave the campsite early today at most 7.00. It is going to be another long walk- could prove at least 5 or 6 hours depending on our speed. This time we are going up ? a steady and lengthy ascent to the top and we see many weapon pits belonging to the Japanese and Australian soldiers.
Birds start their daily calling up in the trees totally oblivious to the humans beginning their quiet journey below ? chances of seeing them in this thick rainforest are little. Bigger and bolder trees ? some very outstanding in their red-brown coating ? are evident on the way. On the way an overwhelmed Geoff hugged and kissed one the trees. I asked why he did it. His answer: ?Oh it is okay to kiss the trees, there is strength in the tree.?
We were advised beforehand to carry as much water with us as there will be none on the way until we reach the top. We went up and up till we reached the summit at 1900m. We rest for a while and started descending down towards Templeton?s Crossing No 2.
While behind I am trying to keep up with the rest of the guys. It seems they are ahead and very fast too. I wonder who is leading the group. Trying so desperately to catch up with them I ran as soon as I come across a leveled ground or paths where not to steep.
Flowers, beautiful flowers with different colours many of then along the way. Picked some and pinned them neatly on my hair before walking. My favorites were ferns ? there were many of them on the sides of the track.
We reached Templeton?s Crossing No.2 at 10.15. Once here we stop for a quick lunch. Another steel hut here with monument on its side. And Butterflies, yes, butterflies many of them with colorful designs ? it appears to be glowing in the sun ? flew about everywhere. The water here was icier ? the minute you put your foot in it starts to freeze. This made me panick so I just sat on one of the rocks and splashed water on myself. When I tried sticking my head into the water a bolt of pain shot through my head!
Templeton__s_Crossing_Day_2_.jpgAfter lunch and when everyone?s done we start walking. We move fast today since it was going to be a long walk for us. From here it?s all up again. A steady climb at first for about 30 minutes and a sudden steep ascend up to about 2000 m. As soon as we reached the top we stopped for a while all the time looking back to where we left. From here a – 45 minutes steep descend and we reached Templeton?s Crossing. Again we stopped to refresh ourselves in the cool water. As we are cooling off on the rocks – another group of trekkers (your wantoks from Australia) came by with a group of porters. They were heading to Kokoda Station ? It seems a lot of the trekkers were heading to Kokoda Station.
After the swim, we had our lunch on clearing at the top. The guys are sitting on the grassy area sipping their tea slowly and eating biscuits with cheese spread and peanut butter. When everyone?s satisfied we began another long gut challenging walk ? this time it is all steep ? the real climb I?d say. Will take us 2 hours to get to the top and we are looking at about 2200meter?s climb up to the top. So we began a gut wrenching climb up from 1850m ?.up and up to 1950. After an hour?s struggle up reached Kokoda Gap at 2.05 ? this is the actual Central and Orokaiva border. A neat clearing and nice lookout as we glance back towards Kokoda and the mountains beyond. Just as we thought this was the end of the climb, no. We start another challenging hour?s walk before we reached the summit which is Mount Bellamy.
Kokoda Gap looking South:
KokodaGapVeiw_lookingSouth0.jpgThe guys with the video camera start taking pictures for you. Geoff?s the camera man this time as Ross becomes the movie star. I am starring too ? Geoff?s telling me I should say something to you?..I tried to think of something nice to say when the guys are jokingly telling me I should call you a bastard for letting me in on this ? I don?t know what to say to that, but I think you should really be here instead of me??the guys are having all the fun and are privileged to have experience our culture and see all the beauties of this place.
But thanks, for I am able to see and experience for myself a part of our world ? where many have bravely and proudly came to pass through. After this little episode we are on the track again ? and this time with me in the lead followed by Steve, John and Ross (Geoff is at the back with the boys) ? we start walking ? a very long walk on the flat at times slightly slope descend. As we are walking above us clouds start to form in lumps and from a distant thunder rumbling. No wind strong winds ? the forest was still but alive with the sound of birds calling. We quicken our pace wanting to get there before it rains.
Walking, walking still walking. Honestly Rich, I am beginning to get worry as the walk gets longer. At this point many things start to run through my mind. I actually thought we were lost! Not a sound from the back as we walk in silence or from ahead of us. I was more than worried when I noticed that some of the paths here were slightly identical to where we left. Thick forests, with big pandanas trees and logs covered with moss. ?Steve, do you think we are lost!? I felt like blurting out. However, I kept my cool and I start to hum a tune from Amazing Grace as we walk along. It?s one of my favorite hymns ? even named my daughter after it.
I have no idea what the guys are thinking?however we kept walking and at one stage Steve commented on how casual I appeared while the rest of them were struggling behind trying to keep up with me. I heard them and looked back and he tells me ?? ?I was just telling Ross and John that you look like a school girl on her way to class while we are struggling at the back!.? Ha! Ha! Rich I think you?re the champ here!
Kokoda Track heading towards Mr Bellamy:
Kokoda_Track_Mt.Bellamy.jpg(A big sigh) Relieve overcame me when I heard shouts from the boys ahead. With my fears gone this time a straight lone descent down and where we would camp for the night ? somewhere between Myola and Naduri where the steel shelter is and a smooth flowing creek. And luck was on our side ? five minutes after we arrived and set up our tents it started to rain.
The water is cold. Lots of water rats here ? big brown spotted ones as well as water prawns and trout. During dark and as we were having our dinner we could hear the bush nearby moving as the hungry marsupials came out of hiding looking for food. With the flashlights we spotted some of them.
One of the porters, Glenn who was the first to reach the campsite said he had seen someone ? a lady with a fishing rod sitting by the river. The lone woman had jumped up in surprise during his approach and disappeared into the bush. He said he had called out a couple of times but the woman kept running. I asked him what she looked like if she had come from one of the villages ? either Naduri or Myola.
Russell is saying that no-one from Myola of Naduri comes here to fish and besides it was a long way from the villages.
I was suggesting maybe some other unknown tribes live in the bush which they don?t know about but the porters are adamant that what Glen saw was a Sanguma or ?spirit nogut? (ghost woman).
Garden at Nauro Village:
Garden_at_Nauro_village.jpgDAY FIVE ? NADURI TO EFOGI
Thursday 2nd October 2003 ? A GAME OF THE MINDToday it all becomes a game of the mind ? ?
We left the campsite at Naduri very early for Efogi ? our next campsite. We went on for about 20 minutes before we came across an old war place propeller. After this another 20 minutes walk and were at the Myola and Naduri junction around 8.00.
The guys wanted to see the Myola Lookout so we left out bags with the porters at the junction and headed for the junction. We walked for about 30 minutes before we happened upon a totally unusual place. It was spectacular ? breathtakingly beautiful and worth a visit. We stayed for some time taking in the new surrounding. It is open grassland, and as you look down a swampy area with small creeks snaking in from all directions ? you would expect to see sheep or cattles to graze here. From here we could see clearly the Myola guesthouses and a few garden clearings towards Myola village.
_LWF0074.jpgAfter that we then leave for the main junction where we took a route to Naduri our next stop for lunch before heading on to Efogi where we camp for the night. Along the way we passed giant pandanus trees. I have never seen it as big and tall as it appears now. Like me, the guys too are fascinated by this. The trees were so big we felt completely dwarfed by them.
_LWF0042.jpgAnother up down and up through the dense rainforests and we reached the crest with clearing and an old abandoned Kunai thatched house on top. Up here provides us with a fantastic panoramic view down the valley almost to Imita Ridge – we can see clearly Kagi, Launumu, Naduri and Efogi villages scattered on the mountain sides. We rest for a while ready for a steep descent below us. The porters identified this place to be an abandoned garden ? villagers moved from one land to another ? shifting cultivation. Flowers and plants of all colors and textures are evident here including trees.
oldnaoro__2_.jpgAfter a well deserved rest we start descending, going down, down, down, we walked for a long time we have filled out water bottles on one of the next two creeks as there is an unreliable supply of water till we reach the village. The downhill to Naduri is fairly steep but we proceed for another hour we come across another ridge ? and before us a beautiful view of Kagi community school, Naduri and Launumu straight ahead. It seems like the edge of the forest also open grassland area towards Naduri village. Garden clearings everywhere as we walk down on towards the Naduri. From a distance we see women carrying bilums of veggies ? they appear like camels moving slowly up and down.
We pass through long kunai grass and continued on until we reach the cattle farms ? no cattle were around that time but if they were they were probably wondering somewhere else. People of Naduri kill and eat cattle on special occasions like Christmas of New Year.
When we arrive and seeing that we walked a long distance without water on the way we head straight for the water pipe just to see that dirt brown water coming out of the pipe. No tea this time as we have dry lunch of biscuits and peanut butter. A bowl of fresh and sweet mandarins was brought to us by the friendly villagers and we ate them all. I actually stuff some into my bag and ate them one by one as we were heading for Efogi on the other side.
At Naduri village we were privilege enough to meet Ovoru Idiki ? the surviving fuzzy wuzzy Angel ? a carrier for four years on the track when Australia and Japanese soldiers fought their war. Ovoru, 98, stooped and bent-over his cane, stopped and looked at the four Australian gentlemen who watched his silent approach. His uneven face flawed by old age suddenly broke into a startling smile as he proceeds towards the gentlemen his hands outstretched. The instant smile brought sparkle to the old man?s eyes. It probably brought back memories of long lost friends during war ? he seemed very happy. We were privileged to have met him ? very privileged.
A proud moment…Ovuru Ndiki meets Australian Defence Chief General Peter Cosgrove and his PNG counterpart Brigadie:
A_proud_moment500….jpg
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