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KOKODA – a personal triumph – Author Gerard Thompson – Holiday Coast Pictorial:
It was something Warren Turner 'just had to do'.
It was to return to the country he grew up in 40 years ago and trek up the most famous route in Australian History – the Kokoda Trail.
The Kokoda is synonymous with Australian folklore. It is as famous as Gallapolli. But unlike that First World War tragedy where Australian manhood stood up and was counted for all the world to see, Kokoda was a triumph from a tragedy.
Seen here in our pick up truck KTL 2 at Ower's Corner following the completion of his trek. Warren is second at the back on the right with yellow on his shirt next to his brother Philip:
100_3369.jpgIt was the place where Australians were to turn the attacking Japanese on their tails and record the first victory of the wiley Nippon by any allied force in the Second World War.
It was the trail where the Fuzzy Wuzzy Angels added to that folklore saving many an Australian when in the most dire of circumstances.
The Kokoda is a legend because of the terrain.
It is one of most mountainous areas in the world. As the crow flies the length of the Trail is not very far at all. But, constantly climbing and descending up and down near sheer mountains of between 60 and 70 degrees in incline, the distance from Kokoda to Ower's Corner is 96.4 kilometres climbing exactly 5500 metres and descending exactly 5500 metres (this is not feet, but metres).
From the 16th April onwards up to the 1st week in May we took over 160 trekkers on the Kokoda Trail. This is a photograph of three treks as they posted for a photograph at the Isurava Battlesite area one days walk from Kokoda if you are heading towards Ower's Corner or on average the 8th day if walking towards Kokoda:
Anzac_Group_at_Isurava.jpgSo why, at exactly 60 years of age, did Warren Turner want to undertake such a mammoth task?
It has everything to do with his family background.
The first son of adventurer Fred Turner, Warren was born in Australia but was moved to Port Moresby as a baby in 1946 and lived there until 1968 when he joined the RAAF.
His dad first worked in the then Australian colony prior to the Second World War. He was a silver and oil prospector. During the war he was already in New Guinea with the Japanese threatening after their loss in the Battle of the Coral Sea when they decided to 'come to Australia' by land instead.
He joined the local militia and was stayed in New Guinea playing his part during the entire war. And, having lived in Moresby, Kokoda was part of his family legend as well.
"As a kid, I played in many war wrecks. Our staircase at home was made from propellors of fighter planes and I had such interesting items as an Australian Owen Gun, and American Carbine and heaps of food rations.
Ower's Corner where the archway is situated either at the start or finish of your kokoda trek was turned into Tent City during one day of the Anzac Day Treks:
Tent_City___Ower__s_Corner.jpgIt was an interesting childhood."
He became involved in electronics in the RAAF and came to Port Macquarie in 1977 and established an electronics store. He has remained here ever since and has been involved in various enterprises including car rental, touch football and now marketing.
He had returned to Papua and New Guinea only a couple of times in the past 40 years, and one was in 1977 when his father died and was buried in Port Moresby.
So, when his brother Phil contacted him on Anzac Day 2004 and suggested they be in New Guinea for Anzac Day 2005. Phil was going to take his son Pat with him.
Warren, being Warren, decided they should take the adventure one step further.
"Why don't we walk the Kokoda Trail and be on the trial for Anzac day instead."
Phil, reluctantly, agreed.Photograph: On the night Warren received his Certificate of Completion, he collapsed on us and gave us all a terrible fright. However, he bounced back and was ok a short time after this photograph was taken. With him in the background was a woman and her husband who he met up with after so many years that took him by surprise. Also in this photograph on the left is his nephew Patrick Turner and on his right, Emmanuel a Kokoda Trekking Porter:
100_3395.jpgPlanning was required. Warren came into contact with Gail Thomas of Kokoda Trekking who conducts the biggest operation of its type in Papua New Guinea.
"Gail was fantastic. Not only was it very economical, the whole operation was so professional," he said.
Just two of our many Fuzzy Wuzzy Angels of today – our Kokoda Trekking Porters who helped Warren and other trekkers across the Owen Stanley Mountains:
River_Crossing_2.jpgWarren booked air fares with Air New Guinea and then set about 'getting ready' for what was to be an unbelievable adventure.
To prepare, Warren calculated that he should train by climbing the biggest hill in our area, North Brother Mountain. He did exactly that, 20 times to be precise, receiving great support from Sandie and Chris Sanfoad who live at the base of North Brother.
He was advised by Gail from Kokoda Trekking who else would be in their group and they included Tasmanians and firemen Steve Purcival and Hayden Fletcher, who also were former armed servicemen.
"As the time approached, even though I had done the training, I was extremely apprehensive. I was full of self doubts, and I worried whether I might now be 'past it' even though I was fairly fit."
Seen here at Ower's Corner our Kokoda Trekking Porters and other trekkers who walked with Warren, his brother and nephew during his Anzac Trek:
100_3372.jpgNothing was to prepare him for that first day.
"What we were to encounter on that first day was remarkable. I have never been so confronted by anything so difficult both mentally and physically."
What was to happen on that first day was to rise in Port Moresby at 4.30 am and to fly direct to Kokoda with the help of Airlines PNG. After taking initial group photos, the first day's trek was to be the hardest and the longest because the target was Isurava, the site of a famous Kokoda Trail battle with the Japanese and the day was April 24. Next morning was Anzac Day and they wanted to be there for a very special Dawn Service indeed.
Getting there was a nightmare and brutal. Warren and the others had never seen anything like it. Near vertical mountain ranges that went up and up and down and down. Crossing torrential rivers and keeping incessant insects at bay. It was incredible because they had to cover two days trekking in one.
More than eight hours later they made it, with Warren wondering whether he would ever get to the end of the day. He did. They had climbed 1376 metres in the one day. The heat was oppressive, the sweat became a torrent, and so did the rain.
"It gave us an sample of our soldiers who had to do it day after day, month after month wearing rotting clothes and unbelievable conditions. They were amazing."
Sleeping well that night, the Anzac Day Dawn Service at Isurava was stunning.
"Watching the sun come up in the mountainous area was wonderful." Warren got to lay a wreath at the Dawn Service in memory of his dad, Fred Turner.Photograph – Isurava Battlesite Area. The first day we normally get our trekkers to overnight at Kokoda so they can rest after their travel to PNG and subsequent travel to Kokoda at the crack of dawn. We have found that is prepares most trekkers for the next tough day ahead that we call test mountain.
Unfortunately because Warren and other trekkers were on a mission to reach Isurava for the dawn service they had to walk straight from the airport to reach their destination:
courage__mateship__endurance__sacrifice.jpgBecause of the tough first day, some did not make it in time for the service.
The trek on the trail continued. It was a relatively short trip on this day to Bora Creek. Warren was assisted on the rapid climbs and descents by his trust climbing and walking pole he had fashioned from a piece of hardwood he found on North Brother Mountain. In places the famous Kokoda Trail was now wider that 12 inches with a near precipice on the other side to hundreds of feet below. Stern stuff indeed.
Over the next two days they passed through the famous Templeton's Crossing, Myola Junction, Myola, Kagi, Efogi and to Brigade Hill on the fourth day. It was here at another significant and majestic position on the Trail that it was decided to hold another Anzac Service involving the people who had missed the Dawn Service at Isurava.
"This was even better than at Isurava. We were joined by two veterans, former 8th Division fighter Verna Clements from Tumut who flew in by helicopter with his family, and a veteran Fuzzy Wuzzy Angel.
Photograph: One of our Anzac Trekkers Ken Toombs with the longest living Fuzzy Wuzzy Angel who lives at Naduri Village:
Picture_103_Ken_Toombs.jpg"It was so emotional with our guides singing and I was able to recite the poem The Fuzzy Wuzzy Angels"
'May the Mothers of Australia,
When they offer up a prayer,
Mention those impromptu Angels,
With the Fuzzy Wuzzy Hair' it concludes.The Trek on the Trail continued and they stayed in the Menari Village where locals came out and sold and cooked for them, fresh food. It was at meeting like these that Warren's grasp of the Pidgin English and Motu languages returned from his childhood. They were delighted he could speak their language.
Some of Kokoda Trekking's Porters & Guides who accompanied one of our very own veterans, Walter Kelly and others seen here at Ower's Corner on the 16th April, 2005. This amazing man walked the whole of the Kokoda Trail at 81 years of age which still gives me goose bumps as I type this….if I am still alive…walking and talking I will be happy, much less walking the trail…what an effort!:
Walter_Kelly_at_Ower__s_Corn.jpgOn the sixth day they headed for Nauro, the mountain with nine 'false' peaks where you keep thinking you have reached the top, and then there is another climb ahead.
On the seventh day the group reached Ua-Ule Creek, the southern most point the Japanese ever reached in their push to Moresby before the Australians started to push them back. It is here on the southern side of the Imata Ridge where the Golden Stairs are located. Australian soldiers put into place 3200 timber logs to create steps. It was in this vicinity where they dismantled a powerful howitzer and moved it piece by piece to another mountain range and reassembled it to have a greater affect on the tough Japanese.
From Warren's point of view, he got better and fitter as the trek continued.
"The first day was a nightmare, and then I progressively got better. By the final day I was going from strength to strength," he said.So the final walk to Ower's Corner was significant. It was the end of their horrendous but marvellous trek.
"We were all emotional, definitely relieved and proud of our achievements. There were tears and hugs all round. My brother, his son and myself that we had done it for dad. We all received our special Certificates of Achievement from Gail and Kokoda Trekking which made us immensely proud."
Back in Port Moresby, the brothers found their father's grave and they visited the famous war cemeteries.
Just prior to leaving, Warren was delighted to make contact with many old friends he played football with 40 years ago in Port Moresby and they made him an 'honoured guest' at a special Golden Oldies night.
Kokoda Trekking Porters making a bridge crossing to get their trekkers across a river on the Kokoda Trail. These guys are amazing and their survival skills excellent:
Picture_045.jpgHis personal Kokoda Trek on the Kokoda Trail will stay with him for the rest of his life.
"Since returning, all of us feel decided different. We have found it hard to settle down and get back into our routines. We are still on the Kokoda Trail."
"It will stay with me forever. I have some truly wonderful memories and it is the best thing I have ever done."
If you have a sense of adventure, Warren Turner recommends this wonderful journey for all Australians.
"I wish I was still there".
My favourite Photograph of our Anzac Trekkers was this gentleman Walter Kelly arriving at the finish line at Kokoda. In the background is another guy John who walked all the way from Isurava with skin off his feet and in socks.
Kokoda Trekking congratulates Warren Turner and everyone else who treks with us and who achieves too their dream of walking the Kokoda Trail.
Our porters and guides will do their utmost to make your dream come true just like Warren Turner and so many others who have trekked with Kokoda Trekking!
Picture_104.jpgFootnote: It was indeed a pleasure emailing back and forth with Warren so he too could realise his dream of walking the Kokoda Trail.
Only yesterday 1st June I was browsing through our local newspaper, the Post Courier SPORTS area when I came across an article about Warren Turner as follows:
quote:
Night to relive good old days – by Numa Alu
WANT to catch up with good old sporting times! Then keep Wednesday nights clear of any engagements. Make a date with the Lamana Gold Club and you are sure to run into an old mate and share your good memories.
The Gold Club hosts the oldies night every Wednesday and it has been quite successful so far.
Ask the oldies like Dadi Toka, Noel Williams, John Harangu and many others who are there and they'll tell you what a great way it has been for old mates to catch up and relive the good old days!
The club had a special visitor on May 4 and a chance meeting after 40 years.
Former Kone Tigers players of the 1960s – Warren Turner, Dadi Toka and Trevor Clough – met at the Gold Club after 40 years.
The trio played in the Kone Tigers Reserve grade side in 1962 – Turner at half back, Toka five-eight and Clough inside centre.
"It was real good to meet Warren after 40 years, " Toka said.
Turner, who now lives in Australia, had been up here to walk the Kokoda Track and was to depart the next day.
Co-incidentally, the meeting took place on the Kone Tigers night.
It was special, Toka said yesterday.
So if you're not doing anything and want to catch up with old times, the Gold Club is the place to be.
Lamana Hotel, is situated in Waigani:
Lamana_Hotel_Carpark2.jpgThe Fuzzy Wuzzy Angels – full version
Many a mother in Australia,
When the busy day is done,
Sends a prayer to the Almighty
For the keeping of her son,Asking that an Angel guide him
And bring him safely back
Now we see those prayers are answered
On the Owen Stanley track,For they haven't any halos,
Only holes slashed in the ears,
And with faces worked by tattoos,
With scratch pins in their hair,Bringing back the wounded,
Just as steady as a hearse,
Using leaves to keep the rain off
And as gentle as a nurse.Slow and careful in bad places,
On the awful mountain track,
And the look upon their faces,
Makes us think that Christ was black.Not a move to hurt the carried,
As they treat him like a Saint,
It's a picture worth recording,
That an Artist's yet to paint.Many a lad will see his Mother,
And the Husbands, Weans and Wives,
Just because the Fuzzy Wuzzy
Carried them to save their lives.From mortar or machine gun fire,
Or a chance surprise attack,
To safety and the care of Doctors,
At the bottom of the track.May the Mothers in Australia,
When they offer up a prayer,
Mention those impromptu Angels,
With the Fuzzy Wuzzy hair.Sapper H "Bert" Beros
NX 6925, 7th Div., RAE, AIFBert Beros served in both WW1 and WW2. He wrote this poem at 4 am one morning on the Kokoda Track after having been on stand-to. It may never have been printed but for the fact that an officer sent a copy home to his mother and she was so impressed that she had it published in the Brisbane Courier-Mail.
Fuzzy_Wuzzy_Angels_2___500_.jpgAnother Poem sent to me which is really touching:
I saw a kid marchin, with medals on his chest.
He marched alongside Diggers marching six abreast.
He knew that it was ANZAC Day – he walked along with pride.
He did his best to keep in step with the Diggers by his side.And when the march was over the kid was rather tired.
A Digger said, Whose medals, son, to which the kid replied:
They belong to daddy, but he did not come back.
He died up in New Guinea on a lonely jungle track.The kid looked rather sad then and a tear came to his eye.
The Digger said, Don't cry my son and I will tell you why.
Your daddy marched with us today – all the blooming way.
We Diggers know that he was there – it's like that on ANZAC Day.The kid looked rather puzzled and didn't understand,
But the Digger went on talking and started to wave his hand.
For this great land we live in, there's a price we have to pay
For we all love fun and merriment in this country where we live.
The price was that some soldier his precious life must give.For you to go to school my lad and worship God at will,
Someone had to pay the price so the Diggers paid the bill.
Your daddy died for us my son – for all things good and true.
I wonder if you understand the things I've said to you.The kid looked up at the Digger – just for a little while
And with a changed expression, said, with a lovely smile:
"I know my dad marched here today – this is ANZAC Day.
I know he did. I know he did, all the bloomin? way".D. Hunter
(A veteran of Shaggy Ridge with the 2/12 Battalion in WW2
Australian_infantry_on_.jpg"The inquisitive mind of a child"
Why are they selling poppies, Mummy
Selling poppies in town today.
The poppies, child, are flowers of love.
For the men who marched away.But why have they chosen a poppy, Mummy
Why not a beautiful rose
Because my child, men fought and died
In the fields where the poppies grow.But why are the poppies so red, Mummy
Why are the poppies so red
Red is the colour of blood, my child.
The blood that our soldiers shed.The heart of the poppy is black, Mummy.
Why does it have to be black
Black, my child, is the symbol of grief.
For the men who never came back.Lest We Forget
But why, Mummy are you crying so
Your tears are giving you pain.
My tears are my fears for you my child.
For the world is forgetting again.
anzac4.jpg
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