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After the usual lunch and feeling confident that we are well on our way to Naoro we begin our next leg up the hill out of the village. The climb is steep and it is very hot and humid. Everyone struggles in the afternoon sun. As we descend on the southern side we see a village, high on a ridge off to our left. Davidson reports that this is Naoro; it?s a long way off. A curtain of rain that had hung over the mountains works its way down the valley. We?re going to get wet. As we reach the valley floor we see that the map has been accurate. This whole valley is all swampland. Endless creek crossings and ankle deep mud.
The pigs have been rooting around everywhere and we hear animals crash away in the undergrowth every now and then. Insects buzz all around our heads. Most of us have wet feet again. Ian cut the heels off his brand new boots early on in an effort to allow them to drain. Tim and Garrie have good quality Italian hiking boots which have kept their feet dry so far but eventually they too succumb to the damp. Mike has given up on his new Timberlands and now wears runners with the boots tied to his pack. The best boots may be the American Jungle variety used in Vietnam because they have canvas uppers and rubber soles that drain easily and dry quickly. Or the KT 26s.
One of my favourite photographs, Ole Petersen in the foreground, other trekkers in the background:
P1010079.jpgNaoro village was originally on the valley floor as the map shows. It was moved up high on the ridge because of the understandable health problems associated with life in the swamp. This means that our day isn?t finished until we climb yet another hill and this ridge line is a continual series of false crests. Even the guest house is higher than the village? more climbing. We break through the cloud as we reach the last crest before the village. The view of the mountains with the rain and cloud in the valley is magnificent. Some of our group are still toiling through the swamp in the dark and will climb the ridge line under torch light.
As usual the boys have got in early and started a fire. There is a hot brew for anyone who needs one as they come in. Tim asks if there is a toilet. Someone says that there?s a privy ?round the back with a big Huntsman spider keeping the bugs away?. Tim decides he doesn?t need to go to the toilet.
Naoro Campsite Area:
P1010080.jpgNaoro ? Ua-Ule Creek 24 May
The climb continues on out of Naoro through the village gardens. As usual the morning is fresh and clear. As we reach the top there are defensive positions dug all around. The views on both sides are brilliant. We descend into Ofi creek. A villager has shot a pig and is bleeding it down stream. The boys approach him warily and talk quietly with him. The village has placed a sign declaring that this is their land and charges a fee for camping. Everyone sits in the cool stream while the hippo wallows. One more climb and descent and we are in the guest house at Ua-Ule in plenty of time for a cool down in the creek and a good meal. The sky opens up and it pours around dinner time.
Granger cooling off in one of the steams:
Granger_cooling_off.jpgUa-Ule Creek ? Ower?s Corner 25 May
The camp site is virtually at the foot of the climb up Imita Ridge. This is the last defendable position before Port Moresby and the place where the Australians reinforced themselves prior to beginning their advance and finding that the Japanese had begun withdrawing. This climb feels like it goes on forever. It isn?t the last climb but it is the last of the really long hard slogs up hill. It is so steep it seems impossible that you could site defensive positions and dig in. Soldiers along the track described trying to dig shell scrapes in places like this but getting no further than building ledges to sit on that offered no protection, even after digging away large amounts of earth from the up slope.
The peak of the track is in a saddle between two craggy knolls. Artillery rounds fired from Ower?s Corner passed close overhead as they flew toward the Japanese on Iorabaiwa. We descend down the famous Golden Stairs, no longer defined by the wooden planking as it was during the war. Now the roots of the trees hold the earthen steps in place. After a couple of kilometers of undulations we finally reach the Goldie River. It?s about 40 metres wide and we wade across. After cooling down, the group sets off on the final climb
We wait just below the top of the hill, near the jagged monument to the Kokoda campaign, wanting to complete the track as a group. Once everyone is together we walk through the monument and celebrate with handshakes and hugs. The PNG lads are thrilled with the achievement as well.
Trekkers waiting for others in their group before walking through the Archway at Ower's Corner:
Owers_Corner.jpgThe amazing endurance, ingenuity and toughness shown by the men who took part in this campaign cannot be appreciated until you?ve done the walk. None of us could turn around now and walk back to the Goldie River.
Kokoda Track Archway at Ower's Corner:
Kokoda_Track.jpgA poem by an Aussie digger is reproduced alongside some photos nearby:
Fuzzy Wuzzy Angels
Many a mother in Australia when the busy day is done
Sends a prayer to the Almighty for the keeping of her son
Asking that an angel guide him and bring him safely back
Now we see those prayers are answered on the Owen Stanley Track.For they haven't any halos only holes slashed in their ears
And their faces worked by tattoos with scratch pins in their hair
Bringing back the badly wounded just as steady as a hearse
Using leaves to keep the rain off and as gentle as a nurseSlow and careful in the bad places on the awful mountain track
And the look upon their faces makes us think that Christ was black
Not a move to hurt the carried as they treat him like a saint
It's a picture worth recording that an artist's yet to paintMany a lad will see his mother and husbands see their wives
Just because the fuzzy wuzzy carried them to save their lives
From mortar or machine gun fire or chance surprise attack
To safety and the care of doctors at the bottom of the trackMay the mothers in Australia when they offer up a prayer
Mention those impromptu angels with the fuzzy wuzzy hair.– Sapper H ?Bert? Beros 7th Div, RAE, AIF
Fuzzy_Wuzzy_Angels_Carriers.jpgOf course we think we have finished but we need to walk the couple of klicks to the vehicles as the track is too rough to drive all the way to Ower?s Corner. A thunderstorm pours rain and lightning on us as we set off and walk for an hour and a bit to the trucks. The track never finishes.
Photograph: Trekkers at Ower's Corner:
Trekkers_at_Owers_Corner.jpgSogeri – on the way back into Port Moresby:
Warrens_house.jpgSpecial thanks must go to Andrew Grierson for sending us this diary. Also special thanks to his brother, a young film director for his hard work in allowing the whole of Australia to view the movie so the likes of our diggers are never forgotten.
Lest We Forget
Andrew Grierson seen here receiving his 'Certificate of Achievement' from Russell Eroro himself a veteran of 270 + treks and my sub-contractor/business parter:
P1010087.jpgPhotograph: A happy bunch of trekkers and porters seen here in celebration mood at Granger and Tim Narara's relatives house in Port Moresby:
P1010099.jpgA huge traditional feast was prepared for trekkers, porters, guides and ourselves which was thoroughly enjoyed by all present with a little touch from the middle east
P1010102.jpgHuge smiles all round with some local SP beer thrown in for the occasion:
P1010105.jpgAssistant guide Davidson Eroro (Russell's brother) and a porter could'nt resist trying on the head scarves – a parting gift – do they look the part or what?
P1010115.jpgThe following day all trekkers wanted to go out to Bomana War Cemtery and to visit the War Museum.:
War_Museum.jpgWould you believe when our Mitsubishi Canter arrived in Kokoda, Russell Eroro – in celebration mode, put on the turban for the arrival of his truck in Popondetta, refer photograph below:
Truck_in_Popondetta.jpg
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