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Hi everyone or as they say here in PNG, Hi Olgeta!
As promised to many people, I have finally put aside some time to prepare my first newsletter for 2004 which I will now share with you all. Its quite long so I hope you can find some time to read it.
Gail3.jpgGood News ? Cheaper Airfares for our Trekkers: Last Friday, after several months of emails back and forth, I received an email from Australia with airfare options for our trekkers together with insurance details which is compulsory in case I ever have to medevac any one of you off the trail. Please take the time to open and read the attached document in case you are interested. If you cannot open the file, I have also posted this information on our kokoda website. It is not compulsory that you book your travel through Budget Travel, just an alternative for you obtain a quote if you are at all interested to compare prices. Travel insurance is ?compulsory? as all trekkers have to be covered before heading out on the trail.
The insurance they provide is a proven product and one we would like to use wherever possible. Before anyone heads off on the Kokoda Trail we require Insurance Policy details otherwise you will not be allowed to board the flight to Kokoda. As you will see from the attachment to cost is A$91.00 per person, which is quite cheap compared with the cost of a charter to airlift someone out. Trekkers from Europe, America or wherever, have to book elsewhere as we have found out it is designed for people living in this region only. One American trekker booked a World Nomads Backpacker Travel Insurance Cover which we have been assured is also ok Travel_assistance@worldcare.com.au
Trek Bookings: For those of you who have already completed your booking forms and decided to trek with us, many thanks, we will do our best to ensure you have a great trek. For those of you who are still considering your options, we sincerely hope you choose us to trek with for the very same reason. Russell Eroro and his porters and guides from Kokoda know the trail better than anyone and it's also a good reason to give back to the people of this area what they do best and that is walk the trail. For future planning, if you are thinking on booking, please complete our booking sheet as soon as possible. http://www.kokodatrail.com.au/booking.html
February Special: 1st March our prices will be increased by 10%. However, if you book and pay your deposit of A$300 before the end of February, you will get the benefit of today?s prices. Sorry we have had to do this but unfortunately costs do not usually go down but always UP! Especially here in PNG where everything is imported from overseas.
Sogeri: On Saturday I took a South African woman I met on a flight back from Australia recently out to Sogeri to have a look at where the trail either starts or ends depending on the way you trek. Would you believe I had no sooner pulled up at the roadside that leads to the trail when in the distance I noticed Eric Uwea one of our guides walking down the road. There he was in full uniform complete with the boots, t/shirt and shorts that I had bought him in 2003. I shook hands and made a comment that he looked like he was ready to take off on a trek and he smiled and said he was just so proud to wear his clothes around Sogeri and that people sometimes come to take photographs of the monuments and he can always talk to them about the trail.
Eric has trekked over 60 times and still cant be anymore than 25 years of age. In March he will head out to Kokoda with two Englishmen who arrive to walk Kokoda. He has known about this trek for sometime and you can tell he just can?t wait. He warned that it will probably still be wet in March and to make sure you wrap your belongings in strong plastic to make sure they stay dry. Same with your packs, cover them to keep the rain off and ensure you have good quality trekking shoes.
7th March we welcome our very first Japanese Trekkers.: Hiroya Imanaka (26) and Sayaka Ikeya (23). Russell Eroro said in all his 140 + treks he has never before trekked with any Japanese trekkers so this is also a first for him and he is very excited. I added that they were trekking in 6 days and he laughed and said it will be a good test for his own legs and he will try to keep up. Heading out on the same flight is five Australian friends and one American who will be doing the 9 day 8 night trek. This surely shows you that the Kokoda Trail is not just attracting Australians but as we have proved, Japanese; English & American tourists also travel to PNG to walk the track. Last year we took out one Swedish backpacker, hopefully this year more tourists will follow.
Lonely Planet: We have been contacted this month by the editor of the Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com) as follows: Hello, Lonely Planet will be updating their PNG guide soon. I am the commissioning editor doing some planning for the book and I have some queries about trekking the Kokoda Trail. Would somebody who works with your organisation be prepared to answer a few questions? Marg Toohey. Both Alison and myself took the time to answer her many questions and hopefully this too will lead to more trekkers coming to PNG to not only walk the trail but also to visit other parts of Papua New Guinea. Some of you may already know if you have ever read anything about me, but this was my intention initially when I commenced my journey to create a website on PNG http://www.pngbd.com I myself alone have posted over 15,000 entries on all PNG related matter not just the Kokoda Trail and Alison must be fast catching up.
It is hoped however, that we encourage the right kind of trekker and not someone who does very little research or heads out on their own. John Thompson (Steve Ovett Group) could not stop laughing as he told the story of a bloke they ran into at the Ower?s Corner side of the trek who had planned on walking the trail and end up in Kokoda. He arrived in Port Moresby, bought supplies and headed off not having done much preparation whatsoever or homework. They found him on a bank in the middle of no-where with half of his food supplies washed away and the only ones left he could not open because he had no can opener. John said he was ashamed to have to admit he was an Australian! So after two days on the trail and getting no-where he turned around and came back in with our group.
Alison Anis our Journalist on http://www.pngbd.com : If anyone has searched our websites you will be aware that Alison filled in at the last moment for the late Richard Thompson in the Steve Ovett group. Alison wrote an article about her trek which we have been told was published in the latest edition of the 'In Flight Air Niugini Paradise Magazine'. Ross Eason a professional photographer also on the trek provided the photographs for which we sincerely express our gratitude. We have not seen the publication as yet but have been told it is definitely in there so Alison is obviously excited to say the least and can?t wait to get hold of a copy. In all my years of reading the Paradise Magazine it has always struck me that mostly its the expatriate writers whose articles get published…..we have just proved that a Papua New Guinea can get her work published as well. Well done Alison….you have helped put PNG on the map and also promote the Kokoda region as well!
http://www.pngbd.com : Many of you may wonder how I am connected to both websites so here I am to enlighten you. I am an Australian ? hence the name ?aussie? who came to PNG with my husband in 1972. I arrived with two small children and had another two years later in Lae where we lived for close on 15 years. My children have all grown up and moved away and now my energy has been put into promoting PNG. Two years ago I began a journey to put something positive into the market place about PNG that I could be proud of. As I work for an accounting firm here in Port Moresby, the first thing that came to mind was finance….hence Daily Exchange Rates was high on the list. Other subjects soon followed. Last year this website surpassed all my dreams when it hit the two million hit mark for the month of November. In 2004 we are now averaging around 3000 visitors per day….not bad for a PNG based website. In 2003 I introduced 'Tourism Subjects' to pngbd and other items such as a 'Photo Gallery' etc. CLICK HERE to view colourful photographs of of many centres throughout PNG – over 4000 images as at the time of writing:
In 2002 I was approached by the Tourism Promotion Authority and the Investment Promotion Authority who wrote to me thanking me for my contribution. 2003 saw The Port Moresby Chamber of Commerce President contact me stating that he had admired PNGBD from day one and watched in admiration as it developed. In 2004 he would like to meet with me?..so all in all, I must be doing something right. As a result of the popularity of the PNGBD website I was asked if I would help PNG people promote their businesses who could not afford or did not have the resources to do so……Kokoda was high on their list! In the beginning I started helping a group at Sogeri, but mid last year switched to Russell Eroro in Kokoda. Russell is a really nice guy and it is such a pleasure to help him. He is always pleasant and so grateful that I have chosen to help him run his business.
By mid 2003 it was clearly evident that I needed a stand alone website as I was struggling to keep up with email enquiries. I needed a place where you all could read and see other comments and learn information about the trail. We also introduced a 'Forum' which we sincerely hope will become a place not only for ?our trekkers? but people from ?all trekking companies? to interact and share their experiences.
Hence, if anyone of you think for a minute that I have trekked many times you are far wrong. I look after all the planning; bookings; trek permits; food; airline tickets; radio contacts; emails back and forth; arrange medevacs; monitor your progress etc etc but I have never trekked! In all of 2003 I only managed one week out of PNG so my time is very limited. I am however, a good listener and I take in all the comments of our past trekkers and the guides and porters so I am learning all the time. Through my association with kokoda and PNG I am often contacted by past trekkers, some of which have trekked often and they too pass on their expert advice to me. I also sent my husband and son out on the trail so I would have someone in house who could answer anything I was lacking in. Alison is also available to answer any female type questions as well as trekking questions. Yes I think we are pretty much covered unless you point out to us where we still need to improve our services to you the trekking public.
As a result I employ a sub contracting company based in Kokoda which is led by Russell Eroro mentioned earlier, who worked alongside and was trained by Clive Baker who wrote a book on Kokoda, which some of you may have read. It is Russell and his many helpers that take you out on the trail. Trekking is certainly in their family! Brother John has trekked over 360 times. Russell 140+ and many other brothers with similar numbers to their credit. These guys know the track like none other. Russell proudly informs me that he operates and run the treks just like any Australian led company as he was taught well by Clive, the big man himself.
Russell?s son is only young, around 12, but is already being trained to take over from dad one day and keep the family business going. Before I came along, Russell only got the crumbs because as you will all see when you arrive out there, its very hard for trekkers to contact these people direct, which is why they need the likes of myself. If you could see me sometimes standing on top of a hill in our compound chatting to Russell by two way radio?yes even in 2004 you might even laugh at the sight.
Coupled with that are letters in envelopes that we consign back and forth through the airline. I regularly send him down a copy of our booking sheet so he can plan your trek to the last detail. I have great admiration for him and pleased he is happy to have me to help him obtain overseas trekkers to grow his business. He is also so proud of what he does. Russell has only been running his own business since mid last year so he too is still new. If you find anything at all that he can improve on, he would gladly like to know.
John on the left and Russell on the right seen here with two other brothers. The remaining guys are part of his army of porters and guides available to take you out on the trail. This photograph was taken just before they departed back to Kokoda in 2003:
Group_Pic_at_Airport_20th_J.jpgGuides and Porters: I might add that we ?encourage? interaction with our guides and porters. Some trekking companies seem to like separating the trekkers from the guides and porters. Russell tells me of one trekking company that would blow them up if they were seen chatting to the trekkers as it was meant for the expatriate leading the group to ?only? talk to the trekkers. The people of Kokoda and surrounding areas are naturally ?quiet? in nature but if they can see you warm to them, they will in turn be your true friend from start to finish. If you prefer they stay their distance than they will sense this too from day one and will do as you wish. However, if you can get them talking, I am sure you will enjoy your trek so much better as you share stories along the trail.
All guides and porters are required to have a medical at the Kokoda Hospital before heading out on the trail and are considered trek fit from day one. They will do anything and everything for you. From cooking your meals, to cutting your walking sticks, teaching you how to walk properly up their steep hills, erecting your tents, cooking, washing and cleaning up after all meals; group food porters also walk ahead to set up camps and to secure guest houses and much more. Don?t worry too much about how you pack your gear because I hear they will unpack everything once you hit Kokoda to make sure it is well balanced and placed in the order it should be to ease the burden on your backs.
One trekker from America once remarked that he did not hire a porter because he would feel ashamed to watch someone else carry his pack. After he suffered out on the trail and finally arrived back in Port Moresby he remarked that it was the most stupid thing he had ever done. He went further to say he would be back again with a group of Americans but next time he would hire a porter and recommend others did too. At one point this guy fell off the track and was hanging on, his legs dangling in space. He suddenly felt two strong arms grab hold of him and lift him and his pack up to safety. The strong guy in question was a group food porter who had ear marked him from day one to struggle and decided he would be his shadow on the trail. The American was ever so grateful to have had him by his side.
If you are used to carrying a pack, then go for it, many others have done so before you. On the other hand, if like our American trekker and this is not part of your regular routine, then let one of these guys do what they do best and carry your gear. It also ensures people living in these parts earn an income and helps keep the track open for generations to come as the villagers see the benefits from strangers walking over their land. Costs charged for porters, includes their wages; airline tickets back home; food on the trail; overheads if we have to airlift them out; their time in Port Moresby until they fly back to Kokoda and anything else that may come up.
guides___porters600.jpgVillage Food: Whenever we sleep in a village, our guide tries to obtain some village style food for you all to try. Most people along the trail are vegetarians so it could consist of fruits that are in season and varieties of root vegetables such as sweet potatoes (kau kau). Villagers will also offer you fresh fruit when in season. You are not forced to purchase but I have been told you kinda feel embarrassed if you don?t as it is laid out in front of you.
Items for Sale: Last year a group of trekkers were sad coz they were not offered even one thing on the track that they could purchase to take home to their families. I mentioned this to Russell and he said he would see what he could do. Perhaps he has spread the word and this year in 2004, you might be offered string bags, necklaces or the like.
What to do in PNG besides trek the Kokoda Trail: This week I also received an email from a future trekker asking about Bass Fishing. If anyone of you need to access any information about PNG, all you have to do is to log onto http://www.pngbd.com and click on the FORUM followed by the button that says SEARCH. Type in the box provided your subject matter ie BASS FISHING and click SUBMIT. You will then be taken to an area where you can surf our website and locate information. Alternatively, you can register as a 'user' and then post a question on our forum. If you cant find what you are looking for then email me and I will point you in the right direction. After spending over 30 years here, there is not much that my husband or I haven?t experienced.
Pain and Pleasure Tours: Kokoda is considered the ?Pain? and ?Tufi? is considered the pleasure. Please let me know if you are interested in a relaxing time after your trek at Tufi and I can make sure it all comes together for you. Flights only go to Tufi on Wednesdays, Friday?s and Sunday?s. For trekkers returning on a Monday from Kokoda, it would mean resting in Port Moresby Tuesday and then heading out early Wednesday to Tufi. Flights to Tufi would set you back around the A$250 mark.
Map_of_Tufi500.jpgTwo options on offer:
1. Tufi Dive Resort ? stay in comfort with everything provided much like a hotel anywhere in the world. Cost is around the A$120 per night but I would have to confirm. Diving can be arranged as with other options available on the island.
Tufi_Verandah_600.jpg2. Stay at the Kofure Village Guest House for A$50 per night inclusive of 3 full course meals served during your stay including, variety of fish; vegetables, lobsters, prawns, bananas, paw paw, coconuts and watermelon. You can try out the local canoes on the fjord; go fishing or just simply relax.
Two of our trekkers Shane Wilkinson and Michael Hann stayed there in 2003 after their trek and said they had a fantastic time. If staying at the guest house, you can still access the dive boat at the Resort and also visit for a cold beer or a meal as both the resort and the guest house work in with each other.
View_of_the_guesthouse__clo.jpg
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